Home Fashion Honoring Kenzo, Dior’s Female Gaze, Nigo Talks Pharrell Friendship – WWD

Honoring Kenzo, Dior’s Female Gaze, Nigo Talks Pharrell Friendship – WWD

Honoring Kenzo, Dior’s Female Gaze, Nigo Talks Pharrell Friendship – WWD


URBAN JUNGLE: “Dream, love and freedom” have been Kenzo Takado’s favourite phrases and people he would wish to be remembered by, mentioned Ruth Obadia, Takada’s longtime publicist, shut pal, and the organizer of an occasion on Tuesday the place Paris dignitaries unveiled a plaque devoted to the late designer, who died of COVID-19 in 2020.

Former colleagues, mates, executives and designers, together with present Kenzo artistic head Nigo and the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned model’s chief government officer Sylvain Blanc, braved the chilly to honor Takada’s reminiscence exterior Galerie Vivienne, the positioning of Kenzo’s first boutique within the late ‘60s and his first vogue present in 1970.

A duo of ceremonial Taiko drummers — an instrument the designer liked and used at a variety of reveals and occasions throughout his intensive profession — opened the celebration, echoing down the wintry road, earlier than audio system together with Ariel Weil, mayor of Central Paris, and Inès de la Fressange spoke to the group of well-wishers.

Weil described how Takada had arrived within the neighborhood within the ‘60s as an immigrant, however had contributed to constructing the popularity of town, and the world round his headquarters — he later moved to Place des Victoires simply across the nook — as a hive for vogue as different creatives flocked to the-then downbeat neighborhood. “He wrote a chapter in Paris historical past, not simply in vogue,” mentioned Weil. “Within the ‘60s, London was the flagship of vogue. Kenzo and his contemporaries made Paris its epicenter once more.”

“He was among the many designers who gave their letters of the Aristocracy to ready-to-wear, however he additionally had a brand new means of presenting vogue reveals that subsequently impressed plenty of different designers, and he put atypical individuals on the runway,” mentioned de la Fressange, who was a mannequin for Kenzo. “Folks would struggle to get tickets, and for the primary time, even individuals from exterior the style world wished to attend.”

However most of all, she remembered him as the proper gentleman. “Those that knew him nicely bear in mind him not for his vogue, however for his human qualities.…He wasn’t simply admired, he was liked,” she mentioned. “Success didn’t change Kenzo’s angle, he was modest, reserved, and he at all times wore a smile.”

“We have been mates to the tip,” mentioned designer Adeline André. Her fondest recollections, she mentioned, have been “his joie de vivre: he was pure, joyful.”

It was not simply the style set that gathered to pay tribute. Among the many crowd, French actor Pierre Richard accompanied his former mannequin spouse Ceyla Lacerda. “I bought to know him and he was beautiful, we miss him rather a lot,” mentioned Richard. “It was vital to be right here at this time.” — ALEX WYNNE

THEATER OF FASHION: Maria Grazia Chiuri’s spring present for Dior was all about difficult the male gaze, with an immersive set by Italian artist Elena Bellantoni flashing feminist messages. For the promoting marketing campaign, she turned as soon as once more to a feminine artistic, American photographer Tina Barney.

Identified for her forensic portraits of her prosperous milieu, Barney snapped fashions Rosanna Ovalles, Honey Ordonez, Mauve Dupuy and Alice McGrath in seemingly unguarded moments at odds with the stereotypically sexualized attitudes of many vogue campaigns.

They’re standing or sitting in an opulent residence with deep crimson partitions, in line with the lavish houses the place Barney normally finds her topics. Represented by the Kasmin gallery in New York Metropolis, the photographer has beforehand lensed campaigns for manufacturers together with Max Mara, Thom Browne and Vaquera.

The Dior spring 2024 ready-to-wear campaign

The Dior spring 2024 ready-to-wear marketing campaign.

Tina Barney/Courtesy of Dior

Talking in September, Chiuri mentioned it was vital to develop a important eye, at a time when social media platforms pour out a torrent of photographs. “As a artistic director, somebody that works additionally with photographs, as a result of I’m a part of this business too, the chance is that I reproduce stereotypical concepts,” she added. “It’s additionally my accountability.”  

The marketing campaign spotlights principally monochrome appears, corresponding to coats and apron attire that includes pagan-style solar symbols and cobwebby knits with a Goth-girl vibe. Equipment embody the Dior Toujours bag in a brand new, crinkled leather-based variation that includes an oversize cannage sample, Diorebel lace-up boots and Adiorable pumps with gladiator straps.

Margot Populaire supplied the artistic course for the marketing campaign, which broke in print on Tuesday. It was styled by Elin Svahn, with Peter Philips accountable for make-up and Damien Boissinot doing hair. — JOELLE DIDERICH

HUMAN KIND: Finest vogue mates Nigo and Pharrell Williams are even tighter now that Williams has been named an adviser on the Japanese designer’s Human Made model.

“He didn’t have an official function and I assumed it was time to make it official that he’s truly advising on the course of the model,” Nigo instructed WWD on the sidelines of a preview appointment for Kenzo, the place he’s been creative director since 2021.

Nigo revealed Williams’ new title on his Instagram account final week, with out elaboration.

Pharrell Williams and Nigo

Pharrell Williams and Nigo

Kristina Bumphrey/WWD

“I’ve actually simply began speaking about it with Pharrell now on this place, and Brian Donnelly [known professionally as Kaws] can also be an adviser,” Nigo instructed WWD. “So now the three of us are formally going to have this accountability and we’re going to begin understanding plans.”

Nigo famous that Williams has been an investor in Human Made since its 2010 launch, and “the model goes nice weapons in the meanwhile.”

The model’s enterprise is roughly break up between worldwide markets and Japan, the place there are six freestanding shops, together with one which shares different strains, together with “some issues from Kaws” and Wasted Youth, the style model of graphic designer Verdy, a current Kenzo collaborator, Nigo mentioned.

A serial vogue entrepreneur and pioneering determine on the streetwear scene, Nigo was the founding father of A Bathing Ape, with which he’s now not related.

He additionally partnered with Williams to launch the streetwear manufacturers Billionaire Boys Membership and Ice Cream, and labored for Uniqlo as artistic director for its UT vary. Lately Human Made unfurled collaborations with the likes of Adidas Originals, Kaws, Levi’s and Verdy.

Williams additionally has his fingers in lots of design pies past his award-winning music profession, most notably as males’s artistic director of Louis Vuitton, the Joopiter on-line public sale platform, and his wellness model Humanrace.

Nigo is to unveil his fall 2024 males’s and girls’s collections for Kenzo on Friday as a part of males’s vogue week in Paris. — MILES SOCHA

STEP OUT: Saucony is encouraging customers to spend much less time scrolling and extra time taking bodily steps.

The Waltham, Mass.-based operating model on Wednesday will launch the Marathumb Problem App, a cellular expertise designed to struggle towards doomscrolling, the time period for spending an inordinate period of time studying unhealthy or damaging information tales.

Marathumb Challenge app

The Marathumb Problem app from Saucony.


The model partnered with market analysis firm HarrisX to survey greater than 1,000 Individuals on how expertise impacts their capacity to benefit from the outside. The outcomes discovered that the common individual scrolls the space of three marathons, or 78 miles a 12 months, on their telephone. This resulted within the creation of the Marathumb Problem.

The app will measure the space customers scroll and compares that to the variety of steps taken every day and week.

The primary weekly problem will kick off on Monday and can proceed for six weeks. Over the course of these six weeks, if a person strikes greater than they scroll, they obtain rewards within the type of Saucony reward playing cards and free branded merchandise corresponding to neck gaiters, hats, string luggage and different merchandise.

Inside the platform, customers can observe their every day and weekly progress and inspire others by sharing accomplished challenges on their social media channels.

“With Individuals scrolling the space of three marathons a 12 months on their smartphones, we’ve recognized a enjoyable and artistic alternative to problem customers to maneuver their ft greater than their feed,” mentioned Rob Griffiths, model president of Saucony. “The launch of the Marathumb Problem App underscores Saucony’s perception within the transformational energy of motion, and we sit up for persevering with to encourage everybody to stay a greater life by shifting the stability between display time and step time.”

A marketing campaign additionally launches Wednesday and can function model ambassadors Tayshia Adams, a former Bachelor and Bachelorette contestant, and Dr. Joe, an emergency medication doctor and TikTok star.

On the similar time, Saucony has unveiled the Journey 17 sneaker, a light-weight operating shoe designed for all sorts of runners. It’s geared up with a Pwrrun+ midsole, and presents a mix of cushioning and responsiveness. The shoe retails for $140. — JEAN E. PALMIERI


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